It lingers at the back of your mind from the moment you enter Hong Kong, but never was the contrast between the two Hong Kong’s starker than that 5-minute Star Ferries ride I took. As the boat bob its way across Victoria harbor on the route between the historic Tsim Sha Tsui and central districts, you catch glimpses of maddening rush and stunning high-rises’ that mark Hong Kong’s growth, interspersed with old world tranquility and languid pace that has been here for centuries.
The incense-filled Taoist temples and the quiet, green spaces with their graceful tai-chi practitioners melt into the chic bars and breakneck ‘shop-till-you-drop’ lifestyles. There are skyscrapers everywhere, but it’s the traditional bamboo scaffolding and a healthy dose of Feng Shui that goes into making each. As impulse decisions go, Hong Kong is as good as it gets. No visas required for Indians, excellent fares on Dragon air, and great season ending discounts at one of Kowloon’s best located hotels meant that planning and starting the vacation took just five days. And while there’s a lot you can do there, I found that a four-to-five day trip struck just the right balance to get a deep enough whiff of the place without breaking the bank or the accrued leave at work!
If you’re arriving in HK and the hotel hasn’t arranged for a pickup (most do, though), take the Airport Express to get to the central district or Kowloon, depending on where you’re staying, and then a taxi for the last mile. Once you’ve dumped your bags and are ready to go, head over to the closest MTR station-they’re within walking distance of most places. The MTR is the most convenient way to travel around Hong Kong and make sure you pick up a MTR map of Hong Kong-super handy, and you never get lost! The easiest place to start is at Central MTR station. As you emerge from the station, the awe-inspiring spectacle of the finest skyscrapers the city has to offer just hits on so many sensory levels. Look out for the Norman Foster designed $5.2-billion HSBC building, a colossus made of steel and glass, and hurry along past the neck-brace-inducing high-rises to reach the Peak Tram Station. It’d be best if you reach by five in the evening-queues for the tram are long! The tram, a funicular-the world steepest, in fact-is the best way up to HK’s highest hill, Victoria Peak. Ignore the mall and head straight for the viewing terrace for a jaw dropping view of the forest of skyscrapers and beyond that, the harbor and a glorious view of kowloon’s eight mountains. If one image could capture all that Hong Kong is, this is it.
If you’re still in the mood to party after the Peak, head over to Lan Kwai Fong, a hillsifde section around Central’s D’Aguilar Street which has many good bistros and bars. If local food tickles your fancy, head over to Good Luck house, where ‘Elvis’ Chaminda and his mates couple good conversation with great food. Open still the wee hours, clubs like Stormis and Fong underground are a must-do for Hong Kong’s finest crowds. And when you’re finally headed home, have your picture taken underneath the Lan Kwai Fong street sign! Now, like any other big city, malls dominate the retail landscape of Hong Kong but the real shopping and gluttony happens in Kowloon’s street markets, where clothes, electronics, and knickknacks compete for space with food carts selling some delectable Peking Duck or the local dimsums. Ladies’ Market in Mongkok and Temple Street Night Market boast of hundreds of stalls selling tops, T-shirts and fake goods, including handbags, DVDs, Football Jerseys. Foot massage parlors spring out from every house, and the less shady they are, the more expensive they get. If electronics is your mojo buy safe from Fortress stores all over Hong Kong-no sales tax, duty-free and open till 9.30pm.
But there is
another side of Hong Kong, heavily spiritual, that should not be given a miss. Slot a day out for visiting the Giant Buddha, the largest seated outdoor bronze Buddha in the world. Get to the Po Lin Monastery on Lantau Island, and pay your respects. Step away from the crowds and walk your way over to the Wisdom Path, a serene spot overlooking the great Lantau Peak. Here, large wooden pillar, placed in the form of a figure of eight to symbolize infinity, display the Heart Sutra, a centuries-old prayer revered by Confucian, Buddhist, and Taoists. This spot is a polar opposite to the busiest, commercial parts of HK. After the rejuvenation at Lantau, a day out at the amusement park is the perfect way to end the vacation on a high, and while Disneyland beckons, most locals prefer the marine-theme park called Ocean Park.
From breeding endangered species like the Giant Panda, to crazy rides and dolphin shows, Ocean Park is a day well spent. For me the high point of the day was the silent mile-long cable car journey from one end of the 170-acre hilly campus to the other which affords great views of the South China Sea. If you’re back by 8.15pm, stop by the Tsim Sha Tsui promenade in Kowloon’s for the nightly Symphony of Lights show, the world’s largest permanent sun et lumière that incorporates lights, lasers, fireworks and 44 waterfront building on both Hong Kong and Kowloon. There’s just so much to do in Hong Kong. It’s a city with a heady recipe of Chinese roots and a generous spray of British colonisms topped off with a classic cosmopolitan cherry. Have swigs, wont you?
Getting there:Jet airways, Cathay Pacific and Air India operate direct flights between Delhi and Hong Kong.Kingfisher Airlines operates from Mumbai and Hong Kong.
Exchange Rate:1 HKD=6.18 INR
to the salt desert in the Rann of Kutch nearby, or watch migratory birds at Chhari Dhand.
